When it is very cold out it is not unusual to see some condensation on the windows. This is not necessarily a bad thing. To be comfortable humidity should be maintained between 30% and 40% RH, out side of that range you get mould if it is too high or it will be too dry if low and dust allergies may be a problem. Even at 30% RH there will be some condensation on the windows. Removing the screens will ease the situation and reduce ice build up at the bottom of the window. Ice on the window can cause the sealed window unit to fail.

Window condensation can be a problem in electrically heated houses built in the 80’s or an older house that has upgraded windows and heating system. Humidity can build up from normal living, cooking, showers, etc. Old houses leak enough to provide for some air exchange with the dryer outside air. Newer or upgraded houses should have a heat recovery ventilator installed to control the humidity. If humidity is building up and you don’t have a heat recovery ventilator then open a window for a few minutes a day and let in some fresh air. It is a good idea to purchase a humidity indicator so you know what you humidity is. Humidity indicators are available from most electronic stores. Humidity is a difficult parameter to measure accurately so when you purchase an indicator choose one that reads the same as several others that are next to it on the shelf.

Ice Dam on a poorly Ventilated roof

The ideal method is for roof ventilation to pull air through the soffit vents and exhaust it through an individual roof or continuous ridge vent.

We recommend a clear space of least 2 inches above your ceiling insulation to allow the moisture that moves through your attic insulation to exhaust through roof ridge vents.

Heat travels by convection, conduction, and radiation. Because energy costs a lot of money it’s important to prevent the warm air from escaping through walls, ceilings, and roof. Insulation and vapor barriers trap the heat, or slow its flow.

During winter months we heat our homes. Our interior heat rises and permeates through the ceiling vapor barrier and attic insulation and causes ice and snow to melt resulting in possible water leakage. Water from the melting is trapped creating an “ice dam” on the roof, gutters and downspouts.

Removing this ice and snow you may cause damage to the roof and is dangerous.  An alternative emergency method to avoid damage if the interior heat problem can’t be corrected is to create water runoffs through the ice and snow. Doing this allows the water to flow off the roof.

Our roofs take quite a beating during their lifetime. Because they are fully exposed, roofs catch the brunt of weather’s worst.

A roof system is composed of several elements that work together to provide three basic, essential functions for your home – shelter, drainage, and ventilation.

The roof covering and the flashing are designed to shed water, directing it into gutters and downspouts that channel it away from the foundation. Air intake and exhaust vents keep fresh air circulating below the roof sheathing, preventing moisture build-up as well as heat build-up.

If you have a central vacuum system, ensure that it exhausts to the outside of the house. This is important because otherwise, dust, dust mites, dirt, pet dander, and allergens could remain in the house. This is true even if you have the latest and best filter system. Despite our great technological advances, no existing filter systems even the most advanced “Hepa” types are 100% efficient.   The smallest particles will get through.   If you suffer from allergies venting the central vacuum outside can make a significant difference.

Some background
The building was originally a triplex built around 1910 and converted into three condominium apartments. The condo in question was the middle unit. The lower unit was heated with a gas-fired boiler in a crawl space, using the original chimney to exhaust the flue gases. During renovations some of the interior of the masonry structure had been exposed, including the chimney breast, as is the current fashion with these older buildings. The exposed chimney appeared wet.

The legwork, or rather crawlwork
Paul and I headed for the crawl space to check out the boiler. We found a 60 year old boiler that had been converted from oil to gas about 25 years ago. We checked the flue clean out and found it to be completely clogged with plant debris, and removed at least a garbage bag full of rotting birds and squirrels nests. With mirror and flashlight we found there was no liner in the chimney. All we saw was bricks.

Eureka
The problem became clear as day. It was all in the bare brick. The flue gases were migrating through the bricks of the chimney, and since the plaster had been removed on the inside, they were entering the apartment. Flue gasses contain a lot of water vapour, carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide, and a few other compounds - carbon monoxide being the most deadly of them all. Danny did the right thing in moving out. It may have saved his and his family’s lives. We went outside and saw a huge moisture stain on the outside of the building. As one can see in the picture it extends from the ground up three stories to the top of the building.

Next step was to turn off the boiler and call the gas company. They arrived the next day and installed a liner. Immediately, the smell began to dissipate and Danny, Lauren and baby were able to return home.